Rome is a bit busy these days, so when our ship docked at the port, we decided to go to a nearby medieval town, Tarquinia. The town dates back to the ninth century BC, and sits on top of a very steep hill overlooking the Tyrrhenian sea.
Overlooking Tarquinia
The town is enclosed by medieval walls and watch towers. There are numerous churches and bell towers within the town, giving it a lovely profile.
Gateway to the City
The old cobblestone streets of Tarquinia are incredibly steep, so we were fortunate to take a trolley train (with a guide to narrate the history) through most of the old town.
Fortunately it was Sunday when we visited Tarquinia, so one of the oldest churches (Santa Maria in Castello) was open for Mass. We were able to visit the interior of the church before Mass started. It was striking in its simplicity and age.
Santa Maria in Castello
Our tour finished with a delicious gelato, and we were back at the port in no time.
That evening we went into the city of Rome for an event sponsored by Crystal for its passengers on the world cruise.
The Main Dining AreaViolinist
We were treated to a delightful evening of music and dinner at the Palazzo Colonna in Rome, a private museum. The chef who prepared the dinner will be responsible for the menu at one of Crystal’s specialty restaurants. One of his restaurants has 3 Michelin stars. The event was pretty amazing – and a great way to end the day.
When our ship docked in Naples, we had the opportunity to visit the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Pompeii was instantly buried beneath 30 feet of volcanic ash and cinder when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 A.D. People living in the city perished instantly when the volcanic ash poured down on the city.
Mount Vesuvius in the background of Pompeii
We had an interesting tour of the portion of the city that has been excavated. We saw streets, homes, and shops that were preserved intact as a result of the instantaneous cascade of volcanic ash that rained down on the city. Consequently it provided a glimpse of Roman life as it was 2000 years ago.
Crowds at Pompeii
We then visited the nearby city of Herculaneum, which was a both wealthier and smaller than Pompeii.
Herculaneum in the Shadow of Mt Vesuvius
Nearby Herculaneum was destroyed by massive lava flows from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Before the volcano erupted, some of the wealthy inhabitants of the town were able to leave by ship. Others didn’t make it out. The homes that they left behind were buried in mud and are therefore well preserved. In fact, residents of the city knew how to construct walls in a way that would withstand some earthquakes, which made it even easier to see some of the structures in their original state.
Gladiators’ Quarters
It was interesting to imagine how life was in these towns 2000 years ago, and to see the contrast between the two cities in terms of the wealth of the inhabitants. Also very interesting to see the manners in which the cities were destroyed (or left intact) by natural disasters.
As we approach the final leg of our journey we will have several stops in Italy. The first stop, which we just had, was in Erice, Sicily. It is a small town (pop 27,000) located on the top of Mount Erice. It is about 2,500 feet above sea level and overlooks the town of Trapani.
Overlooking Sicily
Erice is a member of an organization named “Borghi più belli d’Italia” which translates as “The most beautiful villages of Italy.” It’s hard to argue with that characterization.
We went on a walking tour of the town. Typical of medieval towns, it is walled off; there are defendable gates that lead into the city; it is loaded with churches, and it has a few castles.
Tourists Explore Erice, Sicily
We visited Chiesa Madre di Erice in piazza Matrice. The church, which featured elaborate architecture inside, is dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta.
Inside Chiesa Madre Duomo
After exploring the inside of the church we headed toward the top of the town where the view of Trapani is breathtaking. Also, while taking in the view from the mountain, we spotted one of the many castles in the town.
Castle in Erice
Of course, before long the place was packed with tourists. And you can really begin to understand why a city whose current business model is built on tourism is getting a bit ambivalent about it. The population is only about 27,000 and by the summer the visitors will come close to outnumbering the residents.
Locals Observe Tourists in Erica, SicilyWoman Tourist in Erice–Before the Deluge
Having said that, when we had some free time, like typical tourists we relaxed, had some pastry and an expresso in a local cafe and then began the ride back to the port. That entailed going through narrow winding roads with lots of hairpin turns. The best course is probably to simply suspend disbelief that doom is imminent and enjoy the sights, which are truly breathtaking.
Kotor is a small city in a small country. The population of the entire country is only about 625,000; the population of Kotor only amounts to about 13,000 people. Nonetheless Kotor has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic. It is also a UNICEF World Heritage Sight, probably for that reason. The approach to Kotor involves navigating some spectacular fjords with views of majestic landscapes that have to be seen to be believed.
Approaching Kotor, Montenegro
After taking a tender ship in, we took a walking tour of the old city. We started the tour by entering through a city gate—all the medieval cities had high thick walls and gates to keep attackers like pirates away. The attackers this time were tourists.
A Gate to the City of Kotor
When we passed through the gate into the heart of the city we quickly came across the Cathedral of St Tryphon which was originally built in 1166. That’s worth thinking about when we Americans have developed the habit calling anything that’s been around for 100 years “old”.
The Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in Kotor, Montenegro
Anyway we went into the church with our tour guide and gave it a look. I would say the best description of the inside would be “elegant”.
Inside St Tryphon Church
Which is more than I can say about the hordes of tourists that invaded the city. We started our tour around 9:30 or so and by 10:30 a full scale invasion seemed to be underway.
Tourists are Invading Montenegro
We knocked around the city for a bit more and saw the Serbian Orthodox Church of St Nicholas. The we went out for quite a nice lunch in a local place in town.
St Nicholas Church in Kotor
All in all, Kotor was a really nice place to visit. But it is easy to see why the townspeople have a love-hate relationship with the cruise ships that bring in so many visitors—and the headaches that come with them.
On Tuesday we headed to Zadar, Croatia to a vineyard named Kraljevski Vinogradi, which translates to Royal Vineyards. Needless to say we went there for a lunch and wine tasting. We thus fulfilled a cardinal rule of travel: Never miss a wine tasting.
Entrance to the Vineyard
The vineyard is located way up in the hills with a breathtaking view of the acres of grapevines leading down to the Adriatic Sea, which is clearly visible as well. As it happens, a chunk of the equity in the vineyard is owned by the Zadar Benedictine nuns.
Grapes Growing at Kraljevski Vinogradi
Lunch was very nice and so was the wine. We tried several glasses. First came the Rosé Scuro. Next was a white wine made with the Pošip grape that is primarily grown in the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. Finally there was a red wine made with a combination of ancestral Zinfandel and Dobričić grapes. Those grapes are primarily grown in the Dalmatian coast of Croatia as well.
Outdoor Restaurant at Kraljevski Vinogradi
After lunch, which consisted of a tuna pâté, cheeses and figs, we wound up buying a bottle of the Punta Skala white. All in all it was very relaxing and a highly recommended way to spend an afternoon.
On Monday we docked in Trieste. As it turns out we were in for a pleasant surprise. Although we docked in Trieste, Italy as advertised, the tour we signed up for was right next door in Slovenia. It never occurred to us that the tour we booked would be in Slovenia. But it was. And that turned out to be a very pleasant surprise.
Overlooking Piran, Slovenia
Slovenia is a very small country in Central Europe with a population of about 2 million people. It borders Italy to the west; Austria to the north; Hungary to the northeast and Croatia to the south and southeast. It also has a short coastline on the Adriatic Sea.
The country has been part of many different states and Empires, including the Byzantine Empire, the Carolingian Empire, the Holy Roman Empire, the Kingdom of Hungary, the Republic of Venice, Napoleon’s First French Empire and the Hapsburg Empire to name a few.
It once again became a part of Yugoslavia and then fell into the Soviet Empire after WW2. But Marshall Tito, who had his differences with Stalin, nevertheless declared Yugoslavia to be a Socialist state.
Surprisingly enough, under socialist rule Slovenia was a poor state. Virtually all of Slovenia’s progress was made after the Berlin Wall came down, the Soviet Union imploded, and Slovenia adopted democratic capitalism, a fact emphasized by our tour guide.
Today, according to 2024 statistics, Slovenia’s GDP is about $72 Billion. Per capita GDP comes in at around $34,000. Consequently Slovenia is now categorized as a high-income country, albeit at the lower end of the high-income designation.
Piran, Slovenia–April 28, 2025. Photo of a woman enjoying coffee at an outdoor cafe on a spring day in Piran, Slovenia
Anyway we piled into the tour coach and headed first for the city of Piran, one of the 3 major towns of Slovenian Istria. The town is known for its medieval architecture with the attendant narrow streets. It has become a bit of a tourist attraction, no doubt aided by the fact that Slovenia is the home country of First Lady Melania Trump.
Boats Tied Up in Piran Marina
In any event, the town was beautiful and very clean. Spotless in fact. We ambled around the town, did some sightseeing and had a cup of coffee before heading back to the coach.
Narrow Side Street in Piran, Slovenia
Next we headed for Padna, a small village of about 30 families located toward the top of a mountain. The townspeople, who are mostly farmers, turned out and displayed their wares, which largely consisted of food that they had harvested and prepared.
Townspeople at the Farmers Market
As part of the tour we were given 5 coupons apiece which we could spend on samples of asparagus lasagne, garlic flavored pasta, apple strudel, cheeses, meats, and glasses of white and red wine. We dove right in and the food was delicious.
There were other things for sale in addition to food. For example, there was Bobbin Lace, some of which we purchased. And there was a man from the town who could (and did) play several musical instruments.
Making Bobbin Lace in PadnaPadna, Slovenia–April 28, 2025. Photo of a farmer playing a squeezebox at a farmer’s market in Padna, Slovenia.
In the end, it turned out to be a delightful tour. And we got to see a slice of Slovenia which we never even would have imagined.
Gondolas, Piazza San Marco, Fine Stores, Cafes and Restaurants. What’s not to like about Venice?
Gondolas Tied Up on the Grand Canal
We docked in Fusina on Sunday largely because cruise boats can no longer dock in Venice. That is because Venice is trying to achieve 2 goals. First, they want to control damage to the city caused by big tour boats. Second, they want to restrict overcrowding by tourists. It is all a work in progress.
Note that we arrived early in the season, docked early and made our way into the city fairly early—and by the time we left at noon, the crowds were already beginning to swell. By mid May (at least) the city will be packed.
It is not difficult to see why tourists flock to the city. In addition to its storied history, the city is physically beautiful. The beauty of the architecture is overwhelming. There are also historically important buildings, palaces, churches and works of art on almost every block.
The Bridge of Sighs in VenicePiazza San Marco in VeniceSt Mark’s Square
Venice is becoming more commercialized by the day as commercial incentives clash with ongoing attempts at preservation. And while it is true that Venice is sinking a few centimeters a year, it is also true that it has been sinking for a very long time. How it all ultimately turns out is anyone’s guess.
Hallway of Shops in St Marks SquareNear St Marks Square
In the meantime, if you get a chance, go to Venice. The magnificence of the city is almost indescribable. Check that, it isn’t almost indescribable; it is indescribable. You should see it while you can.
Trogir, like Dubrovnik, is a beautiful city. Unlike Dubrovnik, it is very small with a population of just over 10,000 people. And unlike Dubrovnik, when we were there, the weather was superb.
In 1997 the center of Trogir was included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites for its Venetian architecture.
Trogir spent a couple of hundred years fighting with the Venetians. Venice emerged victorious and ruled the city from 1420 until 1797, at which time Trogir became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire with a brief interlude (from 1806 to 1814) when Napoleon ruled. Trogir (and Croatia) did not become truly independent until 1991 when the Berlin Wall came down with the implosion of the Soviet Union, and with it Yugoslavia.
Tourists Walk through a Gate to Trogir
Trogir has a strong urban tradition that goes back 2,300 years. That tradition was mainly influenced by the Greeks, Romans and Venetians. One of the first sights you see in when entering Trogir is the Cathedral of St Lawrence, also known as Trogir Cathedral.
Cathedral of St Lawrence
Its architectural style can be described as Romanesque-Gothic. Since it has been around so long it is an amalgam of existing styles as additions were put on through the years in various styles as they became fashionable.
Another sight nearby is the city clock tower. Originally it was the Church of St Sebastion, dedicated to him because (it was said) he was instrumental in averting the plague which was then sweeping Europe.
Clock Tower in Trogir, Croatia
We ambled around the city some more, saw some interesting side streets and finally decided to have lunch in Trogir.
Side Street in TrogirTable in Trogir Restaurant
In the end, Trogir is a beautiful city with lots of history attached to it. Interestingly enough, the citizens of Trogir have historically been very jealous of their personal freedom. Something to think about.
We spent Friday (the 25th) and Saturday (the 26th) in Croatia. On Friday it was Dubrovnik; on Thursday, Trogir.
We went on a walking tour of Dubrovnik. It is just a stunningly beautiful city. And a walking tour is just the right way to see the city. Except that when we went, it rained. Actually it didn’t just rain, it poured. By the time the tour was over we were drenched.
In the end the weather didn’t matter all that much. The city was simply gorgeous.
As you arrive, you are greeted with the sight of the newer, more modern Dubrovnik from the deck of the ship. Newer is a relative term; the city has been around for about 1,000 years.
Entranceway to Dubrovnik, Croatia
We, however chose a walking tour in the Old City, which was truly spectacular. Among other things, we got a look at St. Ignatius Church. It is sometimes called Rhagusinum, which was then the Jesuit college in the Republic of Ragusa—a precursor to Croatia.
Tourists walk past St Ignatious Church in the pouring rain
One of the first places we came across was the Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Some work was being done on it so there was some scaffolding up. But the scaffolding was relatively minor.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Another place we saw was the 16th century Sponza Palace, also known as Divona. The building has served many functions, including: a customs office, mint, treasury, armory, bank and school. It survived a 17th century earthquake that destroyed much of the Old City. Today it is the Dubrovnik State Archive.
Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik
We paid a visit to Rectors Palace where, mercifully, we mostly stayed inside and viewed the art on display. Finally, we saw some other tourists climbing the stairs (in the rain) to walk on the walls of the city. We avoided that.
Hallway in Rectors Palace
All in all, despite the fierce rain, we’d like to think that our walking tour of Dubrovnik, including the beautiful architecture and the accompanying history lesson, was well worth the effort.
Tourists Climb Stairs to the City Wall, Dubrovnik, Croatia
We docked at Corfu (Kerkyra) on Thursday; it is one of the Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. According to Thucydides, in the 5th century BC, it was one of the 3 great naval powers of Greece (along with Athens and Corinth). But because Corfu was in such a strategic position, sovereignty over the island changed hands many times.
Corfu in the Morning
The island became part of the Republic of Venice around 1204 and successfully repulsed several Ottoman sieges. As a result it was recognized by European states as a bulwark against the Ottoman Empire. Subsequently it became one of the most fortified places in Europe.
After the Napoleonic Wars the British Empire ruled Corfu from 1815 until Britain ceded it to the modern Greek state in 1864. The first governor of independent Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was born on Corfu.
The tour schedule included a visit to a family owned soap factory that specialized in olive oil soap. We learned how a few simple ingredients are melded, heated, formed, cut and dried into a great, gentle soap.
Family Owned Soap Business in Corfu
We also visited one of Greece’s oldest local markets and saw beautiful displays of fresh fish and produce.
Fish Stand in CorfuFruits and Vegetables Stand
We roamed through the town of Corfu, which is lovely and has a very European vibe. In the midst of our roaming we stopped at Casa Parlante, a “living history museum” that shows how the nobility from Venice lived when they came to live in Corfu in the 19th century. We also got a look at how mere mortals live today.
Corfu Kitchen 19th CenturyCorfu Street Life
Corfu was a delight to see, and a wonderful place to visit. Now we leave Greece and move on to Croatia.
We had the opportunity to visit a vineyard and an olive grove (and the processing plants for their products) near Olympia, Greece. It was a beautiful day to be outdoors and meet the owners of these family businesses – and to taste some very good olive oils and wines.
An Olive Oil Demo in Makrisia
And then there is the history. Of course, history is involved when you visit Olympia, where the first Olympiad was held in 776 BC. Only ruins remain at the site, but you can imagine the massive Temple of Zeus and the stadium that could hold 45,000 spectators.
The olive oil grove we visited (Oilympian Olive Oil Mill) is one of many small ones in the area, but it holds the machinery used by many of the local producers to press the olives and bottle the oil. The grapes are pressed on the day they are harvested in order to keep their acidity level low— a requirement to qualify as extra virgin olive oil. The tasting involved various flavored oils (herbs, cheese and citrus flavors) – delicious!
Olive Oil Tasing in Makrisia
Then on to a lovely vineyard (Olympia Land Estate) to taste some crisp white wines and a dry red, while enjoying local cheese and snacks.
Tssting Room in Kosinka, Greece
One of the white wines was Assyrtiko, which is getting a lot of buzz in the US these days. It was originally grown by the ancient Greeks on the island of Santorini. Now the vines are grown in Australia, South Africa and the USA, and it is becoming increasingly popular throughout the world.
A Vineyard in KosinkaSnacks in Kosinka
As it turns out, we were supposed to visit Santorini but due to increased volcanic activity on the island that trip was canceled.
We did a short (2 ½ hour) walking tour in the small but relentlessly cute town of Nafplion. Greece. It is a coastal city located in the Peloponnese in Greece. Additionally, it is the capital of the regional unit of Argolis and an important tourist destination.
First stop: we visited Kapodistrias Square.
Kapodistrias Square, Nafplion Greece
On the top of the mountain there is a fort that dates from medieval times that served to overlook and guard the town from raiders and pirates etc. From our vantage point we could clearly see the fort. One thing to keep in mind though is that the water used to cover where we stood. Only relatively recently (in 1974) did the town modernize the seaport, and largely for the tourist trade.
Fort on a Mountaintop In Nafplion, Greece
Next we visited an archeological museum, loaded with artifacts. Using symbols, they tell much of the story of how the town progressed through the ages. Because it was a busy seaport, it had many different rulers.
Artifacts on Display in Museum
As we walked along on the tour we observed the very narrow side streets that led out to the wide spaces that make up the various town squares.
Nafplion Home Address in a Side Alleyway
The walls of the city that made up the fortifications are clearly visible from the main town square.
Town Square in Nafplion
Another thing—back towards the port, there is a large town square where Harvard University has its only presence in Europe! In the photo below it’s the building with the blue shutters.
A Town Square in Nafplion where Harvard maintains a presence.
Finally, we got a good look at the fort on a small island in the harbor that was used to protect the city.
Bourtzi Castle in Nafplion Greece
And now it’s back to the ship for dinner and to get ready for the next day’s tour.
