All posts by Joe Benning

Author, photographer, musician and entrepreneur...
Europe, International, Photo Notes, Travel

Venice, Italy

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Gondolas, Piazza San Marco, Fine Stores, Cafes and Restaurants. What’s not to like about Venice?

Gondolas Tied Up on the Grand Canal

We docked in Fusina on Sunday largely because cruise boats can no longer dock in Venice. That is because Venice is trying to achieve 2 goals. First, they want to control damage to the city caused by big tour boats. Second, they want to restrict overcrowding by tourists. It is all a work in progress. 

Note that we arrived early in the season, docked early and made our way into the city fairly early—and by the time we left at noon, the crowds were already beginning to swell.  By mid May (at least) the city will be packed. 

It is not difficult to see why tourists flock to the city. In addition to its storied history, the city is physically beautiful. The beauty of the architecture is overwhelming. There are also historically important buildings, palaces, churches and works of art on almost every block. 

The Bridge of Sighs in Venice
Piazza San Marco in Venice
St Mark’s Square

Venice is becoming more commercialized by the day as commercial incentives clash with ongoing attempts at preservation. And while it is true that Venice is sinking a few centimeters a year, it is also true that it has been sinking for a very long time. How it all ultimately turns out is anyone’s guess.

Hallway of Shops in St Marks Square
Near St Marks Square

In the meantime, if you get a chance, go to Venice. The magnificence of the city is almost indescribable. Check that, it isn’t almost indescribable; it is indescribable. You should see it while you can. 

JFB

Photo Notes

Trogir, Croatia

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Trogir, like Dubrovnik, is a beautiful city. Unlike Dubrovnik, it is very small with a population of just over 10,000 people. And unlike Dubrovnik, when we were there, the weather was superb. 

In 1997 the center of Trogir was included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites for its Venetian architecture. 

Trogir spent a couple of hundred years fighting with the Venetians. Venice emerged victorious and ruled the city from 1420 until 1797, at which time Trogir became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire with a brief interlude (from 1806 to 1814) when Napoleon ruled. Trogir (and Croatia) did not become truly independent until 1991 when the Berlin Wall came down with the implosion of the Soviet Union, and with it Yugoslavia. 

Tourists Walk through a Gate to Trogir

Trogir has a strong urban tradition that goes back 2,300 years. That tradition was mainly influenced by the Greeks, Romans and Venetians.   One of the first sights you see in when entering Trogir is the Cathedral of St Lawrence, also known as Trogir Cathedral. 

Cathedral of St Lawrence

Its architectural style can be described as Romanesque-Gothic. Since it has been around so long it is an amalgam of existing styles as additions were put on through the years in various styles as they became fashionable. 

Another sight nearby is the city clock tower. Originally it was the Church of St Sebastion, dedicated to him because (it was said) he was instrumental in averting the plague which was then sweeping Europe. 

Clock Tower in Trogir, Croatia

We ambled around the city some more, saw some interesting side streets and finally decided to have lunch in Trogir.

Side Street in Trogir
Table in Trogir Restaurant

In the end, Trogir is a beautiful city with lots of history attached to it. Interestingly enough, the citizens of Trogir have historically been very jealous of their personal freedom. Something to think about. 

JFB

Photo Notes

Croatia

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We spent Friday (the 25th) and Saturday (the 26th) in Croatia. On Friday it was Dubrovnik; on  Thursday, Trogir. 

We went on a walking tour of Dubrovnik. It is just a stunningly beautiful city. And a walking tour is just the right way to see the city. Except that when we went, it rained. Actually it didn’t just rain, it poured. By the time the tour was over we were drenched.

In the end the weather didn’t matter all that much. The city was simply gorgeous. 

As you arrive, you are greeted with the sight of the newer, more modern Dubrovnik from the deck of the ship. Newer is a relative term; the city has been around for about 1,000 years.

Entranceway to Dubrovnik, Croatia

We, however chose a walking tour in the Old City, which was truly spectacular. Among other things, we got a look at St. Ignatius Church. It is sometimes called Rhagusinum, which was then the Jesuit college in the Republic of Ragusa—a precursor to Croatia. 

Tourists walk past St Ignatious Church in the pouring rain

One of the first places we came across was the Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Some work was being done on it so there was some scaffolding up. But the scaffolding was relatively minor. 

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Another place we saw was the 16th century Sponza Palace, also known as Divona. The building has served many functions, including: a customs office, mint, treasury, armory, bank and school. It survived a 17th century earthquake that destroyed much of the Old City. Today it is the Dubrovnik State Archive.  

Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik

We paid a visit to Rectors Palace where, mercifully, we mostly stayed inside and viewed the art on display. Finally, we saw some other tourists climbing the stairs (in the rain) to walk on the walls of the city. We avoided that. 

Hallway in Rectors Palace

All in all, despite the fierce rain, we’d like to think that our walking tour of Dubrovnik, including the beautiful architecture and the accompanying history lesson, was well worth the effort. 

Tourists Climb Stairs to the City Wall, Dubrovnik, Croatia

MAM & JFB

Photo Notes

Hello Corfu, So Long Greece

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We docked at Corfu (Kerkyra) on Thursday; it is one of the Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. According to Thucydides, in the 5th century BC, it was one of the 3 great naval powers of Greece (along with Athens and Corinth). But because Corfu was in such a strategic position, sovereignty over the island changed hands many times. 

Corfu in the Morning

The island became part of the Republic of Venice around 1204 and successfully repulsed several Ottoman sieges. As a result it was recognized by European states as a bulwark against the Ottoman Empire. Subsequently it became one of the most fortified places in Europe.

After the Napoleonic Wars the British Empire ruled Corfu from 1815 until Britain ceded it to the modern Greek state in 1864. The first governor of independent Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was born on Corfu. 

The tour schedule included a visit to a family owned soap factory that specialized in olive oil soap. We learned how a few simple ingredients are melded, heated, formed, cut and dried into a great, gentle soap. 

Family Owned Soap Business in Corfu

We also visited one of Greece’s oldest local markets and saw beautiful displays of fresh fish and produce.  

Fish Stand in Corfu
Fruits and Vegetables Stand

We roamed through the town of Corfu, which is lovely and has a very European vibe. In the midst of our roaming we stopped at Casa Parlante, a “living history museum” that shows how the nobility from Venice lived when they came to live in Corfu in the 19th century. We also got a look at how mere mortals live today.

Corfu Kitchen 19th Century
Corfu Street Life

Corfu was a delight to see, and a wonderful place to visit. Now we leave Greece and move on to Croatia. 

MAM & JFB

Photo Notes

Port Katakolon, Greece

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Today we stopped at Katakolon in Greece. 

Port of Katakolon, Greece

We had the opportunity to visit a vineyard and an olive grove (and the processing plants for their products) near Olympia, Greece.   It was a beautiful day to be outdoors and meet the owners of these family businesses – and to taste some very good olive oils and wines.   

An Olive Oil Demo in Makrisia

And then there is the history. Of course, history is involved when you visit Olympia, where the first Olympiad was held in 776 BC.  Only ruins remain at the site, but you can imagine the massive Temple of Zeus and the stadium that could hold 45,000 spectators.  

The olive oil grove we visited (Oilympian Olive Oil Mill) is one of many small ones in the area, but it holds the machinery used by many of the local producers to press the olives and bottle the oil.  The grapes are pressed on the day they are harvested in order to keep their acidity level low— a requirement to qualify as extra virgin olive oil.  The tasting involved various flavored oils (herbs, cheese and citrus flavors) – delicious!

Olive Oil Tasing in Makrisia

Then on to a lovely vineyard (Olympia Land Estate) to taste some crisp white wines and a dry red, while enjoying local cheese and snacks. 

Tssting Room in Kosinka, Greece

One of the white wines was Assyrtiko, which is getting a lot of buzz in the US these days. It was originally grown by the ancient Greeks on the island of Santorini. Now the vines are grown in Australia, South Africa and the USA, and it is becoming increasingly popular throughout the world.   

A Vineyard in Kosinka
Snacks in Kosinka

As it turns out, we were supposed to visit Santorini but due to increased volcanic activity on the island that trip was canceled.

Next stop, Corfu! 

MAM and & JFB

Photo Notes

Visiting Nafplion, Greece

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We did a short (2 ½ hour) walking tour in the small but relentlessly cute town of Nafplion. Greece. It is a coastal city located in the Peloponnese in Greece. Additionally, it is the capital of the regional unit of Argolis and an important tourist destination. 

First stop: we visited Kapodistrias Square. 

Kapodistrias Square, Nafplion Greece

On the top of the mountain there is a fort that dates from medieval times that served to overlook and guard the town from raiders and pirates etc.  From our vantage point we could clearly see the fort. One thing to keep in mind though is that the water used to cover where we stood. Only relatively recently (in 1974) did the town modernize the seaport, and largely for the tourist trade. 

Fort on a Mountaintop In Nafplion, Greece

Next we visited an archeological museum, loaded with artifacts. Using symbols, they tell much of the story of how the town progressed through the ages. Because it was a busy seaport, it had many different rulers. 

Artifacts on Display in Museum

As we walked along on the tour we observed the very narrow side streets that led out to the wide spaces that make up the various town squares.

Nafplion Home Address in a Side Alleyway

The walls of the city that made up the fortifications are clearly visible from the main town square. 

Town Square in Nafplion

Another thing—back towards the port, there is a large town square where Harvard University has its only presence in Europe! In the photo below it’s the building with the blue shutters.

A Town Square in Nafplion where Harvard maintains a presence.

Finally, we got a good look at the fort on a small island in the harbor that was used to protect the city.

Bourtzi Castle in Nafplion Greece

And now it’s back to the ship for dinner and to get ready for the next day’s tour. 

JFB

Photo Notes

Easter in Athens

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Easter in Athens

We started out the day (OK it was closer to noon) by going to a Mass in St Paul’s church in Athens.  The Mass was concelebrated by Fr Patrick, the chaplain of the ship. 

Then at 6:00 PM Crystal Cruises sponsored an event for world cruisers. The event was held at the Zeppeion Megaron in Athens. It consisted of a Greek themed dinner and cocktails.  It was accompanied by a show with traditional Greek themes that showcased the Olympics—which began in Greece thousands of years ago. 

Athens Event

The event was first rate as Crystal events tend to be. We took some video clips of the event which are mashed together below.  It’s a short video, just under 3 minutes in length. The lighting etc is less than ideal, but  it gives the flavor of a Crystal event. Give it a try at the you Tube link listed below. 

Athens Event

Just go to YouTube and go to this link: https://youtu.be/aYQugDodIYE

JFB

Photo Notes

Mykonos, Greece

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Glistening White Mykonos

Mykonos is a small windy island that is part of the Cyclades Islands, in the Aegean Sea.  It is difficult to grow things on the rocky, steep hills of Mykonos.  However, in the past the wind made it a great place for farmers from other islands to come and use the Mykonos windmills (for grinding grain, for example).  Now the windmills serve mostly as posh micro-hotels.   

Famous Mykonos Windmills

The sandy beaches and great weather make Mykonos a haven for tourists. 

Instagram Favorite: The Church of Panagia Paraportiani

The capital city (named Mykonos) has hotels, restaurants, churches and lots of high-end shops.  Many of the streets are narrow and made from cobblestone, with low white-washed buildings on both sides, and are decorated with colorful doors and shutters. The whitewashing that results in the iconic look of the island is required by zoning regs.

 

Agia Kyriaki Church in Mykonos

We visited Mykonos on the Saturday before Easter, and the weather was ideal.  The streets and restaurants were crowded with visitors, including  many Greeks who come from the cities to the islands for the holiday.  

Tourists Descend on Mykonos

We saw more ornate church interiors, as both the Roman Catholics and the Greek Orthodox/Eastern Catholics prepared for Easter, which occurs on the same day this year.  Most of the churches in Mykonos are small, and locals call them chapels.

Agios Nikolakis Church in Mykonos

There is, of course, a lot of history and mythology related to Mykonos but we didn’t have time to visit the archeology museum and learn more.  So now we have a reason to return! 

Mykonos is a must see place that holds (or should hold) a prime spot on everyone’s bucket list. 

MAM & JFB

Europe, Photo Notes, Travel

Thessaloniki and Volos, Greece

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We are back in Greece now, where we had a nice walking tour of Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city (after Athens).  

Fishermen in Thessaloniki

Again, tons of history in this city, some reflected in its archeology museum, and much in the monuments all over the city (including Alexander the Great ).  

Wall of the Old City in Thessaloniki

We spent a good deal of time in the Church of St. Dimitrios, learning about the Greek Orthodox church, and some of the ways it differs from the Roman Catholic church.  

St Dimitrios Greek Orthodox Church

Workers in churches all over Greece were busy on Holy Thursday preparing for Easter rituals and proceedings.   Lucky for us, Holy Thursday was the day for our visit to Thessaloniki.  We saw many Epitaphios (the embroidered or iconographic cloth depicting Christ after his removal from the cross).  A wooden canopy, decorated with flowers, carries the epitaphios in a solemn procession on Good Friday evening.  

Volos

After Thessaloniki we headed to Volos, a much smaller town with lots of history (of course).  Another visit to the archeological museum in Volos, and then a trip to the nearby village of Milies.  

Archeological Museum in Volos
Gate through the Wall in Milies

Milies means “apple trees” in Greek, and the region produces beautiful, tasty apples, along with flowers and many other crops. 

Milies is one of 24 small towns on the Pelion Peninsula in the Thessaly region of central Greece.  These small old towns are hidden high in the hills, because it did not make sense to live on the coast in the days when pirates were attacking coastal cities.

Bell Tower in Milies, Volos

The Church of the Holy Archangels, a Greek Orthodox church, is located in Milies.  It is very small but the interior is ornately decorated with many frescoes. 

Church of the Archangeles

There is a beautiful entry to the church where candles may be lit for special offerings. When we visited the church on Good Friday, the church had another Epitaphios on display. Holy Week is a special time to be in Greece and learn about the Greek Orthodox church.  This year is the first time in 1700 years that the Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches will celebrate Easter on the same day. 

We plan to go to a Mass on Easter in Athens to be concelebrated by the ship’s chaplain. 

MAM & JFB