On Tuesday we headed to Zadar, Croatia to a vineyard named Kraljevski Vinogradi, which translates to Royal Vineyards. Needless to say we went there for a lunch and wine tasting. We thus fulfilled a cardinal rule of travel: Never miss a wine tasting.
Entrance to the Vineyard
The vineyard is located way up in the hills with a breathtaking view of the acres of grapevines leading down to the Adriatic Sea, which is clearly visible as well. As it happens, a chunk of the equity in the vineyard is owned by the Zadar Benedictine nuns.
Grapes Growing at Kraljevski Vinogradi
Lunch was very nice and so was the wine. We tried several glasses. First came the Rosé Scuro. Next was a white wine made with the Pošip grape that is primarily grown in the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. Finally there was a red wine made with a combination of ancestral Zinfandel and Dobričić grapes. Those grapes are primarily grown in the Dalmatian coast of Croatia as well.
Outdoor Restaurant at Kraljevski Vinogradi
After lunch, which consisted of a tuna pâté, cheeses and figs, we wound up buying a bottle of the Punta Skala white. All in all it was very relaxing and a highly recommended way to spend an afternoon.
On Monday we docked in Trieste. As it turns out we were in for a pleasant surprise. Although we docked in Trieste, Italy as advertised, the tour we signed up for was right next door in Slovenia. It never occurred to us that the tour we booked would be in Slovenia. But it was. And that turned out to be a very pleasant surprise.
Overlooking Piran, Slovenia
Slovenia is a very small country in Central Europe with a population of about 2 million people. It borders Italy to the west; Austria to the north; Hungary to the northeast and Croatia to the south and southeast. It also has a short coastline on the Adriatic Sea.
The country has been part of many different states and Empires, including the Byzantine Empire, the Carolingian Empire, the Holy Roman Empire, the Kingdom of Hungary, the Republic of Venice, Napoleon’s First French Empire and the Hapsburg Empire to name a few.
It once again became a part of Yugoslavia and then fell into the Soviet Empire after WW2. But Marshall Tito, who had his differences with Stalin, nevertheless declared Yugoslavia to be a Socialist state.
Surprisingly enough, under socialist rule Slovenia was a poor state. Virtually all of Slovenia’s progress was made after the Berlin Wall came down, the Soviet Union imploded, and Slovenia adopted democratic capitalism, a fact emphasized by our tour guide.
Today, according to 2024 statistics, Slovenia’s GDP is about $72 Billion. Per capita GDP comes in at around $34,000. Consequently Slovenia is now categorized as a high-income country, albeit at the lower end of the high-income designation.
Piran, Slovenia–April 28, 2025. Photo of a woman enjoying coffee at an outdoor cafe on a spring day in Piran, Slovenia
Anyway we piled into the tour coach and headed first for the city of Piran, one of the 3 major towns of Slovenian Istria. The town is known for its medieval architecture with the attendant narrow streets. It has become a bit of a tourist attraction, no doubt aided by the fact that Slovenia is the home country of First Lady Melania Trump.
Boats Tied Up in Piran Marina
In any event, the town was beautiful and very clean. Spotless in fact. We ambled around the town, did some sightseeing and had a cup of coffee before heading back to the coach.
Narrow Side Street in Piran, Slovenia
Next we headed for Padna, a small village of about 30 families located toward the top of a mountain. The townspeople, who are mostly farmers, turned out and displayed their wares, which largely consisted of food that they had harvested and prepared.
Townspeople at the Farmers Market
As part of the tour we were given 5 coupons apiece which we could spend on samples of asparagus lasagne, garlic flavored pasta, apple strudel, cheeses, meats, and glasses of white and red wine. We dove right in and the food was delicious.
There were other things for sale in addition to food. For example, there was Bobbin Lace, some of which we purchased. And there was a man from the town who could (and did) play several musical instruments.
Making Bobbin Lace in PadnaPadna, Slovenia–April 28, 2025. Photo of a farmer playing a squeezebox at a farmer’s market in Padna, Slovenia.
In the end, it turned out to be a delightful tour. And we got to see a slice of Slovenia which we never even would have imagined.
Gondolas, Piazza San Marco, Fine Stores, Cafes and Restaurants. What’s not to like about Venice?
Gondolas Tied Up on the Grand Canal
We docked in Fusina on Sunday largely because cruise boats can no longer dock in Venice. That is because Venice is trying to achieve 2 goals. First, they want to control damage to the city caused by big tour boats. Second, they want to restrict overcrowding by tourists. It is all a work in progress.
Note that we arrived early in the season, docked early and made our way into the city fairly early—and by the time we left at noon, the crowds were already beginning to swell. By mid May (at least) the city will be packed.
It is not difficult to see why tourists flock to the city. In addition to its storied history, the city is physically beautiful. The beauty of the architecture is overwhelming. There are also historically important buildings, palaces, churches and works of art on almost every block.
The Bridge of Sighs in VenicePiazza San Marco in VeniceSt Mark’s Square
Venice is becoming more commercialized by the day as commercial incentives clash with ongoing attempts at preservation. And while it is true that Venice is sinking a few centimeters a year, it is also true that it has been sinking for a very long time. How it all ultimately turns out is anyone’s guess.
Hallway of Shops in St Marks SquareNear St Marks Square
In the meantime, if you get a chance, go to Venice. The magnificence of the city is almost indescribable. Check that, it isn’t almost indescribable; it is indescribable. You should see it while you can.
Trogir, like Dubrovnik, is a beautiful city. Unlike Dubrovnik, it is very small with a population of just over 10,000 people. And unlike Dubrovnik, when we were there, the weather was superb.
In 1997 the center of Trogir was included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites for its Venetian architecture.
Trogir spent a couple of hundred years fighting with the Venetians. Venice emerged victorious and ruled the city from 1420 until 1797, at which time Trogir became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire with a brief interlude (from 1806 to 1814) when Napoleon ruled. Trogir (and Croatia) did not become truly independent until 1991 when the Berlin Wall came down with the implosion of the Soviet Union, and with it Yugoslavia.
Tourists Walk through a Gate to Trogir
Trogir has a strong urban tradition that goes back 2,300 years. That tradition was mainly influenced by the Greeks, Romans and Venetians. One of the first sights you see in when entering Trogir is the Cathedral of St Lawrence, also known as Trogir Cathedral.
Cathedral of St Lawrence
Its architectural style can be described as Romanesque-Gothic. Since it has been around so long it is an amalgam of existing styles as additions were put on through the years in various styles as they became fashionable.
Another sight nearby is the city clock tower. Originally it was the Church of St Sebastion, dedicated to him because (it was said) he was instrumental in averting the plague which was then sweeping Europe.
Clock Tower in Trogir, Croatia
We ambled around the city some more, saw some interesting side streets and finally decided to have lunch in Trogir.
Side Street in TrogirTable in Trogir Restaurant
In the end, Trogir is a beautiful city with lots of history attached to it. Interestingly enough, the citizens of Trogir have historically been very jealous of their personal freedom. Something to think about.
We spent Friday (the 25th) and Saturday (the 26th) in Croatia. On Friday it was Dubrovnik; on Thursday, Trogir.
We went on a walking tour of Dubrovnik. It is just a stunningly beautiful city. And a walking tour is just the right way to see the city. Except that when we went, it rained. Actually it didn’t just rain, it poured. By the time the tour was over we were drenched.
In the end the weather didn’t matter all that much. The city was simply gorgeous.
As you arrive, you are greeted with the sight of the newer, more modern Dubrovnik from the deck of the ship. Newer is a relative term; the city has been around for about 1,000 years.
Entranceway to Dubrovnik, Croatia
We, however chose a walking tour in the Old City, which was truly spectacular. Among other things, we got a look at St. Ignatius Church. It is sometimes called Rhagusinum, which was then the Jesuit college in the Republic of Ragusa—a precursor to Croatia.
Tourists walk past St Ignatious Church in the pouring rain
One of the first places we came across was the Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Some work was being done on it so there was some scaffolding up. But the scaffolding was relatively minor.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Another place we saw was the 16th century Sponza Palace, also known as Divona. The building has served many functions, including: a customs office, mint, treasury, armory, bank and school. It survived a 17th century earthquake that destroyed much of the Old City. Today it is the Dubrovnik State Archive.
Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik
We paid a visit to Rectors Palace where, mercifully, we mostly stayed inside and viewed the art on display. Finally, we saw some other tourists climbing the stairs (in the rain) to walk on the walls of the city. We avoided that.
Hallway in Rectors Palace
All in all, despite the fierce rain, we’d like to think that our walking tour of Dubrovnik, including the beautiful architecture and the accompanying history lesson, was well worth the effort.
Tourists Climb Stairs to the City Wall, Dubrovnik, Croatia
We docked at Corfu (Kerkyra) on Thursday; it is one of the Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. According to Thucydides, in the 5th century BC, it was one of the 3 great naval powers of Greece (along with Athens and Corinth). But because Corfu was in such a strategic position, sovereignty over the island changed hands many times.
Corfu in the Morning
The island became part of the Republic of Venice around 1204 and successfully repulsed several Ottoman sieges. As a result it was recognized by European states as a bulwark against the Ottoman Empire. Subsequently it became one of the most fortified places in Europe.
After the Napoleonic Wars the British Empire ruled Corfu from 1815 until Britain ceded it to the modern Greek state in 1864. The first governor of independent Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was born on Corfu.
The tour schedule included a visit to a family owned soap factory that specialized in olive oil soap. We learned how a few simple ingredients are melded, heated, formed, cut and dried into a great, gentle soap.
Family Owned Soap Business in Corfu
We also visited one of Greece’s oldest local markets and saw beautiful displays of fresh fish and produce.
Fish Stand in CorfuFruits and Vegetables Stand
We roamed through the town of Corfu, which is lovely and has a very European vibe. In the midst of our roaming we stopped at Casa Parlante, a “living history museum” that shows how the nobility from Venice lived when they came to live in Corfu in the 19th century. We also got a look at how mere mortals live today.
Corfu Kitchen 19th CenturyCorfu Street Life
Corfu was a delight to see, and a wonderful place to visit. Now we leave Greece and move on to Croatia.
We had the opportunity to visit a vineyard and an olive grove (and the processing plants for their products) near Olympia, Greece. It was a beautiful day to be outdoors and meet the owners of these family businesses – and to taste some very good olive oils and wines.
An Olive Oil Demo in Makrisia
And then there is the history. Of course, history is involved when you visit Olympia, where the first Olympiad was held in 776 BC. Only ruins remain at the site, but you can imagine the massive Temple of Zeus and the stadium that could hold 45,000 spectators.
The olive oil grove we visited (Oilympian Olive Oil Mill) is one of many small ones in the area, but it holds the machinery used by many of the local producers to press the olives and bottle the oil. The grapes are pressed on the day they are harvested in order to keep their acidity level low— a requirement to qualify as extra virgin olive oil. The tasting involved various flavored oils (herbs, cheese and citrus flavors) – delicious!
Olive Oil Tasing in Makrisia
Then on to a lovely vineyard (Olympia Land Estate) to taste some crisp white wines and a dry red, while enjoying local cheese and snacks.
Tssting Room in Kosinka, Greece
One of the white wines was Assyrtiko, which is getting a lot of buzz in the US these days. It was originally grown by the ancient Greeks on the island of Santorini. Now the vines are grown in Australia, South Africa and the USA, and it is becoming increasingly popular throughout the world.
A Vineyard in KosinkaSnacks in Kosinka
As it turns out, we were supposed to visit Santorini but due to increased volcanic activity on the island that trip was canceled.
We did a short (2 ½ hour) walking tour in the small but relentlessly cute town of Nafplion. Greece. It is a coastal city located in the Peloponnese in Greece. Additionally, it is the capital of the regional unit of Argolis and an important tourist destination.
First stop: we visited Kapodistrias Square.
Kapodistrias Square, Nafplion Greece
On the top of the mountain there is a fort that dates from medieval times that served to overlook and guard the town from raiders and pirates etc. From our vantage point we could clearly see the fort. One thing to keep in mind though is that the water used to cover where we stood. Only relatively recently (in 1974) did the town modernize the seaport, and largely for the tourist trade.
Fort on a Mountaintop In Nafplion, Greece
Next we visited an archeological museum, loaded with artifacts. Using symbols, they tell much of the story of how the town progressed through the ages. Because it was a busy seaport, it had many different rulers.
Artifacts on Display in Museum
As we walked along on the tour we observed the very narrow side streets that led out to the wide spaces that make up the various town squares.
Nafplion Home Address in a Side Alleyway
The walls of the city that made up the fortifications are clearly visible from the main town square.
Town Square in Nafplion
Another thing—back towards the port, there is a large town square where Harvard University has its only presence in Europe! In the photo below it’s the building with the blue shutters.
A Town Square in Nafplion where Harvard maintains a presence.
Finally, we got a good look at the fort on a small island in the harbor that was used to protect the city.
Bourtzi Castle in Nafplion Greece
And now it’s back to the ship for dinner and to get ready for the next day’s tour.
We started out the day (OK it was closer to noon) by going to a Mass in St Paul’s church in Athens. The Mass was concelebrated by Fr Patrick, the chaplain of the ship.
Then at 6:00 PM Crystal Cruises sponsored an event for world cruisers. The event was held at the Zeppeion Megaron in Athens. It consisted of a Greek themed dinner and cocktails. It was accompanied by a show with traditional Greek themes that showcased the Olympics—which began in Greece thousands of years ago.
Athens Event
The event was first rate as Crystal events tend to be. We took some video clips of the event which are mashed together below. It’s a short video, just under 3 minutes in length. The lighting etc is less than ideal, but it gives the flavor of a Crystal event. Give it a try at the you Tube link listed below.
Mykonos is a small windy island that is part of the Cyclades Islands, in the Aegean Sea. It is difficult to grow things on the rocky, steep hills of Mykonos. However, in the past the wind made it a great place for farmers from other islands to come and use the Mykonos windmills (for grinding grain, for example). Now the windmills serve mostly as posh micro-hotels.
Famous Mykonos Windmills
The sandy beaches and great weather make Mykonos a haven for tourists.
Instagram Favorite: The Church of Panagia Paraportiani
The capital city (named Mykonos) has hotels, restaurants, churches and lots of high-end shops. Many of the streets are narrow and made from cobblestone, with low white-washed buildings on both sides, and are decorated with colorful doors and shutters. The whitewashing that results in the iconic look of the island is required by zoning regs.
Agia Kyriaki Church in Mykonos
We visited Mykonos on the Saturday before Easter, and the weather was ideal. The streets and restaurants were crowded with visitors, including many Greeks who come from the cities to the islands for the holiday.
Tourists Descend on Mykonos
We saw more ornate church interiors, as both the Roman Catholics and the Greek Orthodox/Eastern Catholics prepared for Easter, which occurs on the same day this year. Most of the churches in Mykonos are small, and locals call them chapels.
Agios Nikolakis Church in Mykonos
There is, of course, a lot of history and mythology related to Mykonos but we didn’t have time to visit the archeology museum and learn more. So now we have a reason to return!
Mykonos is a must see place that holds (or should hold) a prime spot on everyone’s bucket list.
We are back in Greece now, where we had a nice walking tour of Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city (after Athens).
Fishermen in Thessaloniki
Again, tons of history in this city, some reflected in its archeology museum, and much in the monuments all over the city (including Alexander the Great ).
Wall of the Old City in Thessaloniki
We spent a good deal of time in the Church of St. Dimitrios, learning about the Greek Orthodox church, and some of the ways it differs from the Roman Catholic church.
St Dimitrios Greek Orthodox Church
Workers in churches all over Greece were busy on Holy Thursday preparing for Easter rituals and proceedings. Lucky for us, Holy Thursday was the day for our visit to Thessaloniki. We saw many Epitaphios (the embroidered or iconographic cloth depicting Christ after his removal from the cross). A wooden canopy, decorated with flowers, carries the epitaphios in a solemn procession on Good Friday evening.
Volos
After Thessaloniki we headed to Volos, a much smaller town with lots of history (of course). Another visit to the archeological museum in Volos, and then a trip to the nearby village of Milies.
Archeological Museum in VolosGate through the Wall in Milies
Milies means “apple trees” in Greek, and the region produces beautiful, tasty apples, along with flowers and many other crops.
Milies is one of 24 small towns on the Pelion Peninsula in the Thessaly region of central Greece. These small old towns are hidden high in the hills, because it did not make sense to live on the coast in the days when pirates were attacking coastal cities.
Bell Tower in Milies, Volos
The Church of the Holy Archangels, a Greek Orthodox church, is located in Milies. It is very small but the interior is ornately decorated with many frescoes.
Church of the Archangeles
There is a beautiful entry to the church where candles may be lit for special offerings. When we visited the church on Good Friday, the church had another Epitaphios on display. Holy Week is a special time to be in Greece and learn about the Greek Orthodox church. This year is the first time in 1700 years that the Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches will celebrate Easter on the same day.
We plan to go to a Mass on Easter in Athens to be concelebrated by the ship’s chaplain.
Approximately 30% of Istanbul (formerly Constantinople) is in Europe (measured by land mass) and 70% is in Asia. The two sides are separated by the Bosphorus Strait. About 16 million people live in the city, and many commute between the two continents for work. The city is a vibrant place where East meets West and old mixes with new.
Greek settlers founded Istanbul in about 660 BC, and it became a vital trade hub due to its location. It is still vital today as the Bosphorus Strait is the only natural sea passage from the Black Sea to international waters.
In 330 AD Emperor Constantine decided to move the capital of the Roman Empire from Rome to Istanbul. By about 1453 the Ottoman empire gained control of Istanbul and it became a major Islamic imperial city. Which it remained until the 1920s.
In 1923 Mustafa Kemel Atuturk served as first president of the Republic of Turkey. He promptly began the process of secularizing and modernizing the Turkish state. Among other things, a 1928 Constitutional amendment removed the provision that stated that the “Religion of the State is Islam”. Currently the state neither officially recognizes nor promotes any religion.
That brings us to the modern era in which the current president, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, appears to be backsliding away from Western Liberalism and promoting Islam.
Man Praying in MosquePulpit for Imam in Little Hagia Sophia
All that said, Istanbul’s Old City is filled with some of the world’s most visited places, and they are located close enough to each other that you can see a lot if you are ready to walk.
We saw the remains of the Roman Hippodrome (think chariot races), including an Egyptian obelisk moved in a complete piece from Egypt without damage. And we visited the Basilica Cistern (from the 6th century), one of many underground cisterns built by those clever Romans to ensure water was available after the aqueducts delivered it to the city. (Movie fans may recall the Basilica cistern from a James Bond movie or the Inferno movie based on the book by Dan Brown.)
Obelisks in Istanbul (Egyptian one is in rear)Cistern in Istanbul
We saw a LOT of mosques, including the very large and ornate ones – Hagia Sophia, the “Blue” Mosque and “Little Hagia Sophia.”
Ceiling of the Blue MosqueTourists in the Hagia Sophia
Hearing the call to prayer several times a day in a place as populated as Istanbul is a pleasure (for some) – voices from minarets all over the city, calling the faithful to prayer.
Muslim Call to Prayer
We also visited Topkapi Palace, home to various Ottoman sultans for hundreds of years – it is a stunning complex of buildings overlooking the Bosphorus Straits and the Sea of Marmara.
Guard in the Palace Museum
Since there were large entourages with each sultan, and many visitors to the Palace, the buildings and grounds are enormous – a series of connected kitchens prepared thousands of meals each day, and the kitchen complex looks like a small village of its own.
